Sunday, May 31, 2009

How To Get A Kayak On The Roof By Myself

Regulator-Rectifier Module, Part II.

Regulator-Rectifier Module, Part II.

For all those lovers, expert, master, pilot and lover of the fascinating world of motorcycles, there is an undeniable fact, tangible and solid that it is one that increasingly marked the technological evolution that every year we see modern motorcycles, if you look carefully, we realize that the electrical system is not excluded or is an exception to these trends trendy.

We note in an obvious way as a motorcycle comes standard today, a number of electric-electronic components are becoming more complex, demanding, sensitive and demanding of a reliable electricity supply that is stable with high quality and it is right here comes into play that tiny gray box, black is sometimes alloyed and when failure can be a headache for many owners and mechanics.

As the generator of the type alternator, the alternator more efficient than either single or three phase, is the preferred choice of most engineers in the factories, because to design and build nature, an alternator produces AC current rate, ie the same alternating (this can be measured and is called the frequency and its unit of measurement is the hertz Hz) between the source and the device consumption also reverses polarity also a number of times proportional to engine speed, making it inconsistent to unthinkable to recharge a battery or accumulator, as they are designed for direct DC current rate, where the polarity is always the same.


How does the rectifier?.


For this reason, the first thing to do is pass the current type AC (alternating current) to DC-(direct) so it can be utilized to recharge the battery and used by other electric-electronic components of the motorcycle, this operation is called "rectification" and is performed by a semi-conductor, a little bug called a "diode", the same is done primarily or Silicon Germanium (elements of the periodic table), this little friend, has the property when it is polarized current passes in one direction (from anode to cathode), but not reverse, achieving cancellation of the change in position of a sine wave, and I will not get more in depth topics of physics, diodes are placed or grouped in a peculiar way, especially to rectify the current which is usually called a bridge rectifier or diode plate here in Venezuela, we say diodera.

Okay, we rectified current but not yet ready, ready to be used by the motorcycle's electrical system and this is because they have to regulate it, because the current induced voltage is directly proportional to the variation magnetic flux in unit time, very briefly this means that at higher engine revs, the more power voltage will be induced and if nothing is done to regulate these excesses to a safe level immediately get their harmful effects, burning all that is achieved in its path, remember that a typical motorcycle alternator has a voltage around 50 V AC or even more.

How does a regulator?.

There are two ways to regulate the excess of tension, an alternator is designed to produce more power on moderate regimes in the high revs and dissipate through a thyristor SCR shorted to ground excess (the only bad thing shorted to ground overvoltage is that performance is affected tumultuously), the other way is, using magnet alternators, you can regulate or manage the excitation of the same according to load requirements, making optimum performance at all times appropriate to the needs of consumption, these are the most appropriate when these needs are high and when there are rate changes very frequently, this type of regulation can be found in high-powered motorcycles, with complex electrical systems such as the Honda Goldwing 1800, the CBR 1100 XX Blackbird or CB1000 Honda simpler.

For now we leave this interesting subject here, I hope the pleasure and utility of all Uds.en the next installment I'll talk about the different types of regulators.

Here I placed some photos of the various regulators, rectifiers modules used by some motorcycles.
Regulator-rectifier
connector included.


Sample the wide variety of these modules, there are wired and without them, large and small.


Another example of these modules, cables and this brings to work with the adjustable magnet field, as a typical alternator.


Reverso previous module showing clear resin protects the internal components, if retailers can see some small cracks in the resin, an unmistakable sign that this module step a better life.



Another specimen seen from the rear, shows the resin we protect the unit, I also suspect it is to keep secret as it is produced and avoid copying.


oldest bikes in the coming controller module of the rectifier, for example, the Honda GoldWing GL1000 1975 -1978 CB750Four or Honda, I have some samples of it. Rectifier

a Honda CB750 Four 1971.


Another angle where you can see the inside of this rectifier old.


This specimen is the regulator module CB750Four a Honda 1971.


Being a little curious, opened the former controller, to see that it is simply a relay, when it induced a lot of electricity was opened by removing the excess dough.

Good Best Friend Picnik Quotes

Removing the rear rubber.



Dismantling rear rubber.

Hi all, here I am back on the ball, taking a small step toward more geishita recovery, this is another interesting issue, in my case particular, I found it necessary to change the rubber, rubber, tire, tire cover, or as you call him at home, since it accused cracking Severe side and a lot of wear in the tread, in short, was not at all wise or safe to move with the time bomb, crazy.

is time to enter the ring.

Note: I opted to perform this procedure in the manual way, I did so, and I think it's a way to feel live near each procedure to give, not if I understand, on the other hand, if you do not have the knowledge and experience to do this, the strength in your arms, (as they need certain muscle skills, but there are steps that are more tricks that forces prevail there are others where only muscle power) and do not like sweaty, do not try, for that there are sites with specialized machines that will make this tedious task a lot more comfortable and friendly.

Ingredients needed for this recipe

In principle, hands and some muscle because I did it the manual way.

1-Two special bar to remove rubber from the wheels, pictured a.

2-Extractor inflation valve, see photo b.

llavesita 10mm 3-A, see photo c.

4-A large rubber hammer, pictured d.

Photo a. The special bar, an essential tool if you remove a rubber wheel.

B. Photo

Exhaust valve inflated.

Photo c. Typical 10mm wrench.

Photo

d. Rubber Mallet.

Step 1.

To start I'll tell you the secret Templar of the alliance, we get all the air to the tire, if they do not Attila, Conan and Samson together you can remove it, to do this, remove the protective cap that goes into the inflation valve. Here in Venezuela we say "bug", see photo # 1.1. Then, we remove the special herramientita domestic inflation valve and with it began to unscrew it, see photos # 1.2 and # 1.3, after unscrewing the valve be domestic inflation, feel the air start to come with some force casting their signature whistle, this is finished, completely remuévanla as shown by the arrow Red Photo # 1.4.

Photo # 1.1.-Removing the cap that covers the inflation valve.

Photo # 1.2.-tool to remove the internal inflation valve.

Photo # 1.3.-unscrewing the valve core inflation, exactly when the air pressure escape seek free, its rubber prison.

Photo # 1.4.-The valve core inflation to be removed, see red arrow.

Once the shell has been removed, store it in a safe place for later installation, see red oval photo # 1.5.

Photo # 1.5.-party component which operates the internal valve inflated.

next thing to do is loosen and remove the nut completely given cylinder subject to inflation, for it placed the small nut 10mm shown in picture # 1.6.

Photo # 1.6.-The nut that holds the cylinder inflation.

Using a 10mm wrench remove the nut 10mm, see photos # 1.7 and # 1.87.

Photo # 1.7.-Removing the 10mm nut.

Photo # 1.8 .- The tuerquita outside, store it in a safe place and remember after ..

Step 2.

A little secret is fully fitted with both feet and start jumping around the edge of rubber, rubber, tire etc ... with this achieve two things: first, take off the rubber inner flange that attaches to edge of rim with a enormous pressure and the second end to empty all the air left in the gut or bedroom. see photo # 2.1.

Photo # 2.1.-mounted and bouncing off the rubber to the inner flange and finish removing all the air, jump, jump.

Once we feel that the tab has been taken off our ordeal we can start to do this we need the help of rubber tapper bars, simple two invaluable tools are the only viable way to separate manually gum rubber, if you look carefully, in the rubber trees where they have special machines to separate the rubber, the rubber tapper will use a very similar also to help and that you have the machine, see photos # 2.2 and 2.3.

Photo # 2.2.-A rubber tapper bars, which will help us the divorce between the rubber and the rim or hoop,

Photo # 2.3.-The other bar to tapper differently.

To begin, I helped a little with my weight down a bit deflated rubber on the rim, thus create a small space where I can insert the first bar, which has a softer tip edge, see photo # 2.4.

Photo # Using the 2.4-foot, am looking for a breakthrough weight where easily insert the bar.

Then insert the other leg, to begin the process of lever pressing in these early stages of the procedure, it is natural to feel some resistance from the rubber, at first provide a lot of trouble, we do not make life easy I assure you, this will need to use a balance between strength and gentleness (cunning as they say), but ultimately if it is essential to have the experience to do this, since it Otherwise they will scratch around the hoop and can bite the gut or inner chamber spoiling, losing illusions, joy time and money, do you I know many damaging to learn how to do this?, and I do not remember.

Warning: again if they are not experts or do not have a good breakfast will better than this to bring the rubber tapper know what to do and also has specialized equipment This saves time, money, sweat, moods and cramps.

The goal here is to completely remove entire edge of the rim flange, as shown in picture # 2.5.

Photo # 2.5.-Top rubber separation with respect to the basket.

We continued slowly pry going out as we move the tab on the rim of basket, see photos # 2.6 and 2.7.

Photo # 2.6-Piano piano if arriva lontano , because there are, we are getting a divorce between the parties.

Photo # 2.7-The red and green arrows clearly show how releasing the tab will ring you submit.

and on and on, slowly advancing and spreading, see photos # 2.8, 2.9, 2.10 and 2.11.

Photo # 2.8-Slow progress, but sure, that if streams of sweat present everywhere.

Come, come, cheer, not all that bad, at first it is normal that the rubber of many battles and we get very stubborn, but as we will beating, it gets looser and is the sweetest thing, that if in the meantime efforts and sweatshirt, you should stop, to get some air and drink a cold beer (chilled to my English friends), if they do that "spirit" sacred intake, I fear that the gods of the barley will give back, and have the sub judice rule, followed.

Photo # 2.9.-Insert and leverage, and leverage inserts, inserts ... grasshopper.

Photo # 2.10.-and on and on, we, as advertising the famous battery bunny , and going and going and going .

Photo # 2.11 - Well and so on until the end of time, until you exit all this tab.

aha, eureka, feel a PLOP! and see with amazement as they have finally separated the first part of the tab, at this term, they must remove the casing or bedroom with care, see picture # 2.12.

Photo # 2.12.-Extracting the gut or the chamber, inside the ring.

Okay, now we will get everything finished, so we turn to pry as shown in Photo # 2.13, against in respect of rubber in this procedure only brute force prevails.

Photo # 2.13. - rubber by levering against it, to finish away from the hoop.

Taking the shot and leverage rubber, makes an appearance Thor with his hammer, for nothing, to Conan, a give him blows on one side and the other until it is completely removed, see picture # 3.1.

Photo # 3.1.-A bump here and another there will be separate everything with ease.

What is the final result?, Something like the one seen in the last photo, if different to this, I'm sure or tired or something went wrong.

Photo # 3.2.-The rubber ring divorced, without a doubt was a difficult issue in the courts.

As I always say, has been a pleasure to share with you this part of the restoration, now I'll rest a bit, I think I deserve it or not?, In the next installment I'll talk about how disarms the ring beam by beam, I assure you it's a fun story.

Sunday, May 24, 2009

Would Benzonatate Get You High

The recharging system of the motorcycle, part I. Re-installation

Thinking that many do not know how to operate the system to recharge the bikes, took the initiative to start by explaining the definitions and concepts, explaining his theory of operation and mitigate some legends about it.

The recharging system of the motorcycle, part I.

The charging system of a motorcycle, intended to generate, regulate, correct and recharge the battery of a motorcycle, as well as the equally despicable task of providing all the electricity to other electrical / electronic components, requiring the motorcycle to work correctly, found primarily in the charging system the following components:

1-Generator, types and differences.
2-regulator-rectifier module.
3-wiring.
4-Battery.
5-Fuses.

1-generator.

is the device that is responsible per se, to produce or generate all the electricity that will require the motorcycle for proper operation, this device works by converting the kinetic energy Crankshaft (Movement) in power, this is clearly seen in the first statement of the law of conservation of energy and first law of thermodynamics, but not dwell on these issues so profound.

Types of generators:

Motorcycles can bring two types of generators very well differentiated, these are the dynamos and alternators, the former being very common and were employees in the first motorcycles say that until the mid the late 70's or so, but with the rapid evolution of the bikes but the electrical systems with consumption requirements increasingly high began to appear alternators, they are increasingly used in modern motorcycles to the point that today, I dare say that almost no bikes with generators, below I put some pictures of different types of generators.

Some photos of different types of generators used on motorcycles.

Dinamo old Bosch.


a dynamo Sample Harley & Davidson.


Much more modern alternative to a Honda CG125, it is clear the fly wheel and the stator.


modern picture of a stator of an alternator type generator.


Other types of stators, as you will see there are many different designs.



Why the alternator moved to Dynamo?

The dynamo was widely used in the first motorcycles to about the mid-60's, being replaced by the alternator, since the discovery and improvements to the bridge rectifier, it became obvious that the performance of the latter was very higher than its oldest couple, the reasons are not hard to find, the main one is that the dynamo is quite inefficient to generate electricity at low speeds and if we add that, thanks to population growth, traffic currently presenting our cities has increased exponentially, can be given an idea of \u200b\u200bwhat would happen to the battery. Another

weight variable that should be taken into account, is the inability of the alternator to keep up with electricity generation efficiency of the increasingly complex "voracious consumer" of our motorcycles electrical current is not the same requirements consumption of a Triumph Speed \u200b\u200bTwin 1937 to a 2004 Honda Goldwing with all its toys down pericuetos and amps.

Differences between generator and alternator.

1-The dynamo generates electricity on the type DC (direct) and type alternator makes AC (alternating current).

2-A dynamo can generate mechanical energy consuming electricity, ie, as opposed to generating electricity, making it a reversible device that can act as both an electric motor generator, when the device is used both ways Dinamotor called, an alternator is not reversible, only designed to generate electricity.

low speed 3-A has a generator to induce electricity underperforming
, for example, at idle or heavy traffic conditions as those found in our crowded cities, there undoubtedly problems with charging the battery, an alternator does not have this problem at low revs as it is much more efficient and generally has a higher performance at any rpm, you can even change "on the road" self-induced electromagnetic field ( in those specially designed for this) to improve its excellence in each and every time you need.

4-A dynamo does not need rectifying current induced since it is of the DC, an alternator if you need to rectify AC current to DC so you can recharge the battery, both devices use regulators.

5-The alternative is more expensive to produce versus a dynamo, but the former is more durable and almost requires no maintenance, the alternator requires more maintenance and the life of your components like the brushes, commutator, brushes, wear a rates higher.

6-weight x power comparable to an alternator of 4 Kg. be more powerful than a dynamo of 6 Kg.

hope you like and find it useful, so this part, the next I'll talk about the regulators and rectifiers.