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Re-installing the battery or accumulator. Disarming

Re-installing the battery or accumulator.

Greetings from these latitudes t ropicales all my dear invisible Blogernautas is a real pleasure to share and be connected by this road again, the issue that concerns us today is very simple, it is another to install the battery or accumulator geshita , let's go combat.

Ingredients needed for this recipe

Phillips screwdriver tip # 2 or stretch marks.

A-die rache 10mm.

A battery 12N14-3 A, preferably Yuasa brand is the original "NOS" or the brand that you prefer.

Step 1.

Our first mission will be prepared prior battery, remember to follow exactly the instructions on how to fill it with the electrolyte (dilute sulfuric acid solution) and as it should apply the initial load to it, in photo # 1.1 shows the original battery that uses Honda CB 750 Four prepared and ready to be installed in place.

Note: I remind again should read and follow the instructions of how to prepare priori battery installed, this will extend the life of it and we save a lot of headaches, wasted time and money.

Photo # 1.1- Battery 12N14-3 Yuasa A list to be mounted.

Each battery usually comes equipped with a set of two 10mm bolts with their nuts, see photo # 1.2.

Photo # 1.2. Nuts with bolts or screws.

And where is the battery?, It's easy just below the seat, in what I call the battery cage, the Americans call it " Battery cage, Battery Box etc ... remember well the positive identification, usually the right and comes with a protective rubber hood, see picture # 1.3.

Photo # 1.3.-The battery cage indicated the positive wire into the red circle.

Tweaking the aim of which is attached the battery, see picture # 1.4.

Photo # 1.4-Squaring the battery well, seconds before lowering your resting place.

Step 2.

Aja, Here I wanted to go, please do not forget to place the vent pipe of the electrolyte, it comes in the box usually each battery, that although it seems foolish exaggeration or annoyance, it is extremely important because this small tube is evacuated the excesses of corrosive electrolyte, especially when, for example, there is an acute angle on the motorcycle or a problem occurs other occasioned by the overflow of it, I have seen many bikes with batteries without the consequent relief mounted with dripping paint on the frame, all destroyed, peeled, food, " eschoretada (stripped to my English friends), remember this liquid is highly corrosive and eats up the clothes, if they drop on the skin, wash immediately with soap and water, see picture # 2.1.

Photo # 2.1.-installing the vent pipe of the electrolyte solution, very important to make sure that is not blocked in any room and pointed at the ground.

Well, here is the battery on his throne of government, ready to manage all the energy resources of the bike, see photo # 2.2.

Photo # 2.2.-The battery in place inside the red circle is the Positive pole (+), eye peeled here.

Step 3.

will only tighten their terminals, each terminal is supplied with a nut that is placed just below it, a sure way to serve the bolt or nut 10mm secure the cable to the battery terminal, see picture # 3.1.

Photo # 3.1.-inserting the nut below the negative side, do it the same way with the positive.

then submit the screw above the terminal, it must grab the tip of the cable between the head and the clamp bolt with nut below, it is sometimes a bit annoying and delay the screw tip pinch grip or a nut to begin to tighten, so we always prefer to use a screwdriver (the screws that are not smooth) until I feel I get the screw and then tightened TUEC a rache see photos # 3.2, 3.3, 3.4 and 3.5.

Photo # 3.2.-placing the screw or bolt with the cable through already inserted.

Photo # 3.3.-initially use the screwdriver until you feel the screw thread the nut.

Foto3.4.-Tight final screw holding the negative lead to terminal, using a 10mm with a die rache, fit well, but neither will Goliaths pass.

Photo # 3.5.-Do the same with the cable terminal and the positive pole, first try to catch the nut with the use of screwdriver, until you feel you hold the thread.

Photo # 3.6.-Secure and tighten everything with the help of a rache , plus a 10mm since lLiz Taylor) as properly assembled battery Nippon Professional Soichiro Honda,,).

Note: As a suggestion, I can recommend permeate every terminal with a bit of a heavy oil or grease on them, this will prevent sulfation or oxidation of the same and also the cables, I think it is bad idea.

Again has been a delight to be able to share with you all this part of the restoration, as just seen, this part was a simple task to do, and more demanding challenges will come, I promise you, see you soon, bye .

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Carburetors, Part II, cleaning.

Disarming Carburetors, Part II, cleaning.

-EXPLANATORY NOTE: Part of what is explained here shows one of the carburetors removed from the cluster, this was done in order to show clearly explain each procedure to in more detail throughout, it has been completely disarmed as was explained in a previous post.

Welcome to my little space, you'll recall was pending to be done, tell how clean the carburetors Honda CB 750 Four K1 , pictured A.

Photo A. "This is the cluster or block with four carburetors CB 750 Four K1.

It's time to get warm.

Ingredients needed for this recipe (see photo B)

a screwdriver.

A small wire brush.

A jar or aerosol spray to clean carburetors, use the brand of your choice since there are thousands on the market and recommend any makes me sick impossible.

A small adjustable wrench.

B. Photo Tools.

Step 1.

We must remember that carbs should be completely disarmed, in picture # 1.1, shows the last step in that chapter stay " carbs Disarmament Part I, The disarmament priori cleaning. " and then just start this new part.

Photo # 1.1.-Removing the piston-plunger, which drives the high needle jet (jet in USA), (Gum in Spain).

This is how it should look like one of the carbs completely disassembled, remember that as explanatory reference, I'm working with only one of four carburetors that brings this model of motorcycle, see photo # 1.2.

Photo # 1.2.-Some of the carburetors the CB 750Four completely disarmed all internal parts.

Step 2.

Well, we can have a good first spray coating formulated to clean carburetors, I began by external parties and from there to the interior, in most cases, clean carbs to these aerosol products will suffice and will be a very practical solution for most cases of conventional cleaning, but if the carburetor is too dirty, there will be a fierce need for other chemical processes are much more aggressive ( Tiner en , creosote or boiled in caustic soda, etc ...), for now I will focus on the most common methods, spray carburetor cleaner, see picture # 2.1.

Photo # 2.1.-Spraying a generous shower of spray carburetor cleaner on the outer surfaces thereof.

Finalized this, we can clean, hugging, brushing everything with the help of a wire brush not too hard, see photo # 2.2.

Photo # 2.2.-Cleaning the external surfaces with a wire brush.

can repeat the same process to other internal and external areas around the carburetor, see photos # 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6 , 2.7 and 2.8.

Photo # 2.3.-Spraying clean carburetors at the rate of the tank.

Photo # 2.4.-brushing the outside surfaces of the fees tank to remove all dirt and foreign particles, it is amazing what hit them, it seems tar.

Photo # 2.5.-This is one of the typical parts that hosts more dirt, and that is always submerged in fuel, here clean thoroughly with wire brush, to keep rates the tank spotless.

Photo # 2.4.-In this picture, clean the inside top of the camera which is housed float, jets, float needle, etc ...

Photo # 2.5 .- Also I apply for all openings, crevices and holes, generous spirt of carburetor cleaner spray.

Photo # 2.6.-Implement large doses of chemicals, will work to clean and dissolve all the dirt and other unwanted foreign particles.

Photo # 2.7.-applying a massive dose to the seat where the needle works piston-plunger.

Photo # 2.8.-For where they see an opening or hole, then apply it at the discretion of the chemist, see green arrows.

Step 3.

-EXPLANATORY NOTE: Part of what is explained here shows one of the carburetors removed from the cluster, this was done in order to show clearly explain each procedure to in more detail throughout, it has been completely disarmed as was explained in a previous post.

OK, clean the carburetor body, we proceed to clean out the gillete , jets or gum, see picture # 3.1.

Photo # 3.1 - Two gillete , jets or gum, high and low respectively.

Preferably with a flathead screwdriver and a good grip wrench, unscrew the gillete itself -jet high, see picture # 3.2.

Photo # 3.2. - Drawing and gillete high.

Continuing with this part apply it a good amount of chemical to get a good thorough cleaning of the pictured # 3.3.

Photo # 3.3.-bath of carburetor cleaner to gillete flute, jet or main jet.

We do the same, but at the same gillete , which is the tiny piece of circular appearance and a small hole in the middle, see picture # 3.4.

Photo # 3.4.-Cleaning gillete itself, with the chemical clean carburetor.

Then do the same cleaning procedure with gillete , jet or lower gum, see picture # 3.5.

Photo # 3.5.-A good chemical bath to clean carburetors gillete low.

To make sure everything has been properly cleaned, then put the gillete to the light and if all is well, we see clearly the middle holes more central, if not pass the light, it is that they are clogged again be repeated throughout the operation, see Photo # 3.6.

Note: Sometimes when they are very clogged internal holes of a and chemical gillete not uncover, as it can be opened using a thin strand of a croche coolest ruled out, a way to uncover what obstructed.

Photo # 3.6.-Checking gillete cleaning in the picture are seen the two holes indicated by an arrow green and red respectively.

do exactly the same procedure with high gillete , see photo # 3.7.

Photo # 3.7.-Check that all holes of the flute gillete , jet or main jet passes the light, see the green arrows.

Photo # 3.8.-Placing the gillete of "singing" should clearly light through the central opening, indicated by the green arrow.

-EXPLANATORY NOTE: Part of what is explained here shows one of the carburetors removed from the cluster, this was done in order to show clearly each procedure to explain in more detail throughout, it has been completely disarmed as was explained in a previous post.

Well, this part I close the chapter on the carburetors, as always I hope you enjoy it and will be of much use, remember that they must then reassemble everything exactly reversing the process outlined Chapter " Disarmament carburetors, part I, ante Disarmament cleaning. ", will soon be back with you with another story soon.