Synchronizing carburetors.
-EXPLANATORY NOTE: Part of what is explained here is shown with the carburetors removed and partially disassembled, this was done in order to show clearly each procedure, the case is to do this with the carburetor mounted on the motor.
all welcome Sean back, especially my English-speaking fans invisible and not, as also in this chapter irremediable, I will tell as the four carburetors synchronized
Photo A.-The Cluster or block with
It's time to get on the train, all aboard.
Ingredients needed for this recipe (see photo b)
A game clock synchronization can be original and mine or not (sell them on eBay.)
a screwdriver.
A 10mm wrench.
A 17mm wrench.
A probe for supplying fuel to the engine, or container with little hose and aquarium tubing.
A common pliers.
B. Photo Tools.
Step 1.
The first will invent some way (hands) of hanging around, the wire is a good friend in this case, but a pipeline fire encountered with my curiosity, then, I came like a glove (pearls for my English friends), see photo # 1.1
Photo # 1.1.-placing some wire where the devices are hung secrets.
then proceed to secure the deposit of newly laid wire probe, see photos # 1.2 and 1.3.
Hanging Photo # 1.2.-tank probe through the wire ..
Photo # 1.3-The deposit of the probe hanging proudly.
We watch the same with the tuning, the hanging from the wire and make sure everything is secure and safe.
Photo # 1.4.-watches and the deposit probe
Step 2.
Well, once everything is in place, pour some gasoline or benzene to the reservoir of the probe, remember to have the valve closed it, see picture # 2.1.
Photo # 2.1.-Pouring petrol or gasoline tank of the probe.
Finalized this, we place one of the four threaded screws where the pipes will connect each carburetor measuring each watch, inside the green circle is seen one, see in picture # 2.2.
Photo # 2.2.-One of the four bolts which connect the metal pipes.
In this case a flat screwdriver to withdraw the screw / plug (green circle and red arrow), be very careful not to lose the little washer that brings every Part of these, see photos # 2.3, 2.4, 2.5
Photo # 2.3.-loosening one of the four blocks (pictured indicated with a red arrow).
Each carb has a screw / plug in photo # 2.4 is indicated by a red arrow, the bolt / plug more external while a green arrow indicates the next a little more domestic.
Photo # 2.4.-loosening the screw / plug more external (red arrow), while looks a little more inside (Green arrow) the next.
For the purpose of seeing more clearly shown in photo # 2.5, some carburetors partially disarmed and removed from the motorcycle , on the blue arrow you can see the screw / plug innermost and the purple arrow is seen the same but is much more exposed and easy to see (these are the carbs that are in the corners), the screws / plugs innermost are housed in the central pair of carburetors, red and green arrows show the adjusting screw IMS air.
Photo # 2.5 .- (see red arrow).
Another picture where you can see green circle within the screw / plug as I call this piece, see picture # 2.6.
Photo # 2.6.-Inside the green circle and indicated by a green arrow will appreciate the plug / screw innermost.
Once removed the four screws / plugs have to be careful not to lose a tiny bulging arandelita very truth, that each one brings, see photo # 2.7.
Photo # 2.7.-The four screws / plugs temporarily safe in my hands.
Step 3.
already have the green light to start installing clocks synchronization, it should install the four brass pipes that come with them, note that one is shorter and the other is longer, the longer ones for central carburetors and short for the ends, see picture # 3.1.
Photo # 3.1 - Two of the four pipes, long and short.
Beginning, the first step is carefully tighten each pipe in each opening, I began by placing logically carburetor # 1 short pipe, see picture # 3.2.
Photo # 3.2.-placing the short pipe to carburetor # 1.
pipe already in place in the carburetor # 1, remember to screw it carefully until it stops, if not with some soft curls and play careful, that if spoiling the carburetor internal thread must have put in a no nice problem, see photo # 3.3.
Photo # 3.3. - the first pipe and placed in the carburetor # 1.
Continuing with this part can be adjusted just a little, a little pipe through a pair of pliers, less than ¼ turn to be almost reached its maximum, have touch please, that is bronze and can be split very easily, see picture # 3.4.
Photo # 3.4.-adjusting pipe carburetor # 1 with common pliers.
Then we can do the same with the pipe longer see photo # 3.5, it is longer so they can reach the screw hole is more furthest internally, so this pipe is longer.
Photo # 3.5.-long pipe, just before be mounted.
Well must be skilled and find the right path until you reach the end of the pipe with the screw hole (indicated by green arrow) carburetor # 2, see Photo # 3.6.
Photo # 3.6.-Placing the longest pipe in the internal thread hole central carburetor # 2.
Another picture where you can see more clearly what is stated in the previous section, see Photo # 3.7.
Photo # 3.7.-red arrow indicates the threaded end of the long pipe, the hole where it should be coiled is indicated by a green arrow.
top connection with the carbs installed four pipes, each indicated with an arrow in a different color, see picture # 3.8.
Photo # 3.8.-All pipes in position, from the carburetor # 1 to # 4.
Just at this moment will connect the four rubber pipe every clock synchronization brings, one for each carburetor, do it in a logical sequence, will not put the clock medium with the carburetor on the corner, is not it, in photo # 3.9, are shown by arrows, red, blue and green, the green shows a rubber pipe put in place, the red shows the time connect one, they connect each carb to each clock.
Photo # 3.9.-Placing rubber pipes to the pipes, one for each watch to each carburetor, look here.
Another picture where you can see clearly interconnected pipes and carbs and then to synchronize clocks, see photo # 3.10.
Photo # 3.10.-green arrows and red indicate each pipe in its place.
Time to connect the pipes of the probe or Gasoline fuel fed to the carburetor, remember there are two, one on the right side of the carburetor and the other on the left, see red arrow where shows a pipe, see picture # 3.11.
Photo # 3.11 "One of the two feeder lines of the probe, they have the function of feeding and transporting the precious liquid carbs.
the first pipeline to the pair of carburetors on the left and the second from the right side, sitting from the bike, see photos # 3.12 and 3.13.
Photo # 3.12.-inserting the first rubber tubing of the probe, left side of the carbs if they're sitting on the bike.
Photo # 3.13.-positioning the second pipe of the probe to the carbs, right side of the bike, for reference is the side facing the tank oil.
Remember that the deposit of the probe was filled with gasoline by alláaaaaaaaa in step 2, so it's time to open the small valve or faucet of the probe, this probe is original Honda and therefore brings this little small valve in case they are hands and make up a deposit like this, I say that sales of aquariums and fish tanks, valves sold a very similar to this and transparent pipes used in the same well serves.
Photo # 3.14. "Now, it was time to open valve allows
Step 4.
went into the stretch, each carburetor has a kind of rubber hood protects the screw that just graduated, you have to remove that rubber part with care, access to locknuts to see photos # 4.1 and 4.2, it is better to remove each of these with rubber the engine is cold, I can assure you.
Photo # 4.1.-The rubber protects each adjusting nut or graduation of each carburetor.
Photo # 4.2. - A partially removed from the gums back, be careful because the rubber is brittle and tears easily, it happened to me a cost and to get me moving heaven and earth.
Step 5.
-EXPLANATORY NOTE: Part of what is explained here is shown with the carburetors removed and partially disassembled, this was done in order to show clearly each procedure, the case is that must do this with carburetors mounted on the engine.
We can start the setup procedures, we must first loosen the nut flat 10 mm, see picture # 5.1, this serves as a nut to that of
I recommend doing this loosen the engine stopped and cold, not very nice to get the heat from the engine in your hands when you are loosening these nuts.
Okay, now we can start the engine, let it warm up at least 10-15 mins at idle or at least the minimum or the engine idle is between 950 to approximate
Photo # 5.1.-loosening the 10mm nut, note that I put down 17mm wrench to be able to "leverage" and thus loosen the 10mm nut up .
OK, with the engine running as stable as possible, it may be turning the 17mm nut on each carb to the left or right as the case may be, (can do it by hand or with 17 mm wrench) see photo # 5.2, this part is somewhat difficult, as moving a carburetor adjustment affects the other, therefore, be cautious and do it in small movements, if they accelerates the bike or are to be shut down, adjust the screw at least, do not despair, quiet and more quiet, it's like tuning a piano, you're playing here and there until you reach the desired note.
The standard for the manual is to place each clock or synchronized between
Photo # 5.2.-With the 17mm wrench or hand can then adjust each carburetor, until to the values \u200b\u200bwhere more even work together.
Photo # 5.3.-The four clocks showing synchronization couple more or less
Once this is achieved, tighten the 10mm nut. careful not to move the 17mm. and then return to re-set into place a hood rubber, but now with more caution, is more delicate to put it back in place, see pictures # 5.4 and 5.5.
Photo # 5.4-.Colocando each tire again, covering everything well.
Photo # 5.5-optimally and how appropriate each hood should be placed, shown here with the carburetor engine removed so they can appreciate well.
Well, I've often thrown brick, but we got to the end, as I always say it was a real pleasure to be able to share with you this fascinating part of the restoration, it is somewhat tedious, but you must meet all requirements to marry this Geisha, is very demanding.
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