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Synchronizing the carburetors. Disarmament

Synchronizing carburetors.

-EXPLANATORY NOTE: Part of what is explained here is shown with the carburetors removed and partially disassembled, this was done in order to show clearly each procedure, the case is to do this with the carburetor mounted on the motor.

all welcome Sean back, especially my English-speaking fans invisible and not, as also in this chapter irremediable, I will tell as the four carburetors synchronized Honda CB 750 Four K1 , pictured a.

Photo A.-The Cluster or block with four carburetors CB 750 Four K1.

It's time to get on the train, all aboard.

Ingredients needed for this recipe (see photo b)

A game clock synchronization can be original and mine or not (sell them on eBay.)

a screwdriver.

A 10mm wrench.

A 17mm wrench.

A probe for supplying fuel to the engine, or container with little hose and aquarium tubing.

A common pliers.

B. Photo Tools.

Step 1.

The first will invent some way (hands) of hanging around, the wire is a good friend in this case, but a pipeline fire encountered with my curiosity, then, I came like a glove (pearls for my English friends), see photo # 1.1

Photo # 1.1.-placing some wire where the devices are hung secrets.

then proceed to secure the deposit of newly laid wire probe, see photos # 1.2 and 1.3.

Hanging Photo # 1.2.-tank probe through the wire ..

Photo # 1.3-The deposit of the probe hanging proudly.

We watch the same with the tuning, the hanging from the wire and make sure everything is secure and safe.

Photo # 1.4.-watches and the deposit probe hanging happily on the Geisha.

Step 2.

Well, once everything is in place, pour some gasoline or benzene to the reservoir of the probe, remember to have the valve closed it, see picture # 2.1.

Photo # 2.1.-Pouring petrol or gasoline tank of the probe.

Finalized this, we place one of the four threaded screws where the pipes will connect each carburetor measuring each watch, inside the green circle is seen one, see in picture # 2.2.

Photo # 2.2.-One of the four bolts which connect the metal pipes.

In this case a flat screwdriver to withdraw the screw / plug (green circle and red arrow), be very careful not to lose the little washer that brings every Part of these, see photos # 2.3, 2.4, 2.5

Photo # 2.3.-loosening one of the four blocks (pictured indicated with a red arrow).

Each carb has a screw / plug in photo # 2.4 is indicated by a red arrow, the bolt / plug more external while a green arrow indicates the next a little more domestic.

Photo # 2.4.-loosening the screw / plug more external (red arrow), while looks a little more inside (Green arrow) the next.

For the purpose of seeing more clearly shown in photo # 2.5, some carburetors partially disarmed and removed from the motorcycle , on the blue arrow you can see the screw / plug innermost and the purple arrow is seen the same but is much more exposed and easy to see (these are the carbs that are in the corners), the screws / plugs innermost are housed in the central pair of carburetors, red and green arrows show the adjusting screw IMS air.

Photo # 2.5 .- (see red arrow).

Another picture where you can see green circle within the screw / plug as I call this piece, see picture # 2.6.

Photo # 2.6.-Inside the green circle and indicated by a green arrow will appreciate the plug / screw innermost.

Once removed the four screws / plugs have to be careful not to lose a tiny bulging arandelita very truth, that each one brings, see photo # 2.7.

Photo # 2.7.-The four screws / plugs temporarily safe in my hands.

Step 3.

already have the green light to start installing clocks synchronization, it should install the four brass pipes that come with them, note that one is shorter and the other is longer, the longer ones for central carburetors and short for the ends, see picture # 3.1.

Photo # 3.1 - Two of the four pipes, long and short.

Beginning, the first step is carefully tighten each pipe in each opening, I began by placing logically carburetor # 1 short pipe, see picture # 3.2.

Photo # 3.2.-placing the short pipe to carburetor # 1.

pipe already in place in the carburetor # 1, remember to screw it carefully until it stops, if not with some soft curls and play careful, that if spoiling the carburetor internal thread must have put in a no nice problem, see photo # 3.3.

Photo # 3.3. - the first pipe and placed in the carburetor # 1.

Continuing with this part can be adjusted just a little, a little pipe through a pair of pliers, less than ¼ turn to be almost reached its maximum, have touch please, that is bronze and can be split very easily, see picture # 3.4.

Photo # 3.4.-adjusting pipe carburetor # 1 with common pliers.

Then we can do the same with the pipe longer see photo # 3.5, it is longer so they can reach the screw hole is more furthest internally, so this pipe is longer.

Photo # 3.5.-long pipe, just before be mounted.

Well must be skilled and find the right path until you reach the end of the pipe with the screw hole (indicated by green arrow) carburetor # 2, see Photo # 3.6.

Photo # 3.6.-Placing the longest pipe in the internal thread hole central carburetor # 2.

Another picture where you can see more clearly what is stated in the previous section, see Photo # 3.7.

Photo # 3.7.-red arrow indicates the threaded end of the long pipe, the hole where it should be coiled is indicated by a green arrow.

top connection with the carbs installed four pipes, each indicated with an arrow in a different color, see picture # 3.8.

Photo # 3.8.-All pipes in position, from the carburetor # 1 to # 4.

Just at this moment will connect the four rubber pipe every clock synchronization brings, one for each carburetor, do it in a logical sequence, will not put the clock medium with the carburetor on the corner, is not it, in photo # 3.9, are shown by arrows, red, blue and green, the green shows a rubber pipe put in place, the red shows the time connect one, they connect each carb to each clock.

Photo # 3.9.-Placing rubber pipes to the pipes, one for each watch to each carburetor, look here.

Another picture where you can see clearly interconnected pipes and carbs and then to synchronize clocks, see photo # 3.10.

Photo # 3.10.-green arrows and red indicate each pipe in its place.

Time to connect the pipes of the probe or Gasoline fuel fed to the carburetor, remember there are two, one on the right side of the carburetor and the other on the left, see red arrow where shows a pipe, see picture # 3.11.

Photo # 3.11 "One of the two feeder lines of the probe, they have the function of feeding and transporting the precious liquid carbs.

We put

the first pipeline to the pair of carburetors on the left and the second from the right side, sitting from the bike, see photos # 3.12 and 3.13.

Photo # 3.12.-inserting the first rubber tubing of the probe, left side of the carbs if they're sitting on the bike.

Photo # 3.13.-positioning the second pipe of the probe to the carbs, right side of the bike, for reference is the side facing the tank oil.

Remember that the deposit of the probe was filled with gasoline by alláaaaaaaaa in step 2, so it's time to open the small valve or faucet of the probe, this probe is original Honda and therefore brings this little small valve in case they are hands and make up a deposit like this, I say that sales of aquariums and fish tanks, valves sold a very similar to this and transparent pipes used in the same well serves.

Photo # 3.14. "Now, it was time to open valve allows benzene or gasoline down by gravity to the thirsty carbs.

Step 4.

went into the stretch, each carburetor has a kind of rubber hood protects the screw that just graduated, you have to remove that rubber part with care, access to locknuts to see photos # 4.1 and 4.2, it is better to remove each of these with rubber the engine is cold, I can assure you.

Photo # 4.1.-The rubber protects each adjusting nut or graduation of each carburetor.

Photo # 4.2. - A partially removed from the gums back, be careful because the rubber is brittle and tears easily, it happened to me a cost and to get me moving heaven and earth.

Step 5.

-EXPLANATORY NOTE: Part of what is explained here is shown with the carburetors removed and partially disassembled, this was done in order to show clearly each procedure, the case is that must do this with carburetors mounted on the engine.

We can start the setup procedures, we must first loosen the nut flat 10 mm, see picture # 5.1, this serves as a nut to that of 17 mm. below that which is just what we set each carburetor, do it with each of the four carbs, put the key 17 mm firmly, as with the 10mm wrench TUEC seek release of this measure when loosening the latter, leave enough slack to move the nut 17 mm.

I recommend doing this loosen the engine stopped and cold, not very nice to get the heat from the engine in your hands when you are loosening these nuts.

Okay, now we can start the engine, let it warm up at least 10-15 mins at idle or at least the minimum or the engine idle is between 950 to approximate 1000 rpm.

Photo # 5.1.-loosening the 10mm nut, note that I put down 17mm wrench to be able to "leverage" and thus loosen the 10mm nut up .

OK, with the engine running as stable as possible, it may be turning the 17mm nut on each carb to the left or right as the case may be, (can do it by hand or with 17 mm wrench) see photo # 5.2, this part is somewhat difficult, as moving a carburetor adjustment affects the other, therefore, be cautious and do it in small movements, if they accelerates the bike or are to be shut down, adjust the screw at least, do not despair, quiet and more quiet, it's like tuning a piano, you're playing here and there until you reach the desired note.

The standard for the manual is to place each clock or synchronized between each carburetor 20 to 22 cm / Hg at idle or least, that's the ideal, but not mortify but you succeed, this is a new carburetor conditions in very good condition, my carburetor is very good but is 38 years old and have some wear, of course, another tenor sing if you change the each carburetor kit, but In practice, my carburetor was Hyper-clean, making just sync with these values \u200b\u200bthree of the four carburetors, always one I fell and the bike greatly accelerated like crazy, explosions and smoke was coming out in spurts, because nothing I said, I'll settle for four carburetors to adjust the values \u200b\u200byou see more couple work, these values \u200b\u200bwere between 10 to 12 cm / Hg at idle or low (See photo # 5.3), as the bike is quite acceptable, as me, perhaps German if I had not made :) , but hey, I'm very proud Latino .

Photo # 5.2.-With the 17mm wrench or hand can then adjust each carburetor, until to the values \u200b\u200bwhere more even work together.

Photo # 5.3.-The four clocks showing synchronization couple more or less 10 to 12 cm / Hg, was happy because the bike was behaving quite well in this ranking.

Once this is achieved, tighten the 10mm nut. careful not to move the 17mm. and then return to re-set into place a hood rubber, but now with more caution, is more delicate to put it back in place, see pictures # 5.4 and 5.5.

Photo # 5.4-.Colocando each tire again, covering everything well.

Photo # 5.5-optimally and how appropriate each hood should be placed, shown here with the carburetor engine removed so they can appreciate well.

Well, I've often thrown brick, but we got to the end, as I always say it was a real pleasure to be able to share with you this fascinating part of the restoration, it is somewhat tedious, but you must meet all requirements to marry this Geisha, is very demanding.

Best Hair Style Petite

carburetors, part I, ante Disarmament cleaning.

Disarmament carburetors, part I, ante Disarmament cleaning.

Hi all, because this time I will explain step by disarm step as a simpler way the bloc of four carburetors Honda CB 750 Four K1 , pictured a.

Photo A.-The Cluster or block with four carburetors CB 750 Four K1.

It's time to enter the business.

Ingredients needed for this recipe (see photo b)

pliers.

a screwdriver.

A fine-point tweezers.

A hammer.

impact screwdriver.

Some small hook.

Photo

B. carbs with the tools.

Step 1.

The first will remove the security cupilla choke cam, as shown in photo # 1.1

Photo # 1.1.-Taking the cupilla security choke cam.

then proceed to remove a small plane that goes right arandelita cupilla below .

Photo # 1.2.-Retired flat washer.

invest carburetors and proceed to remove the screwdriver as a lever that holds the insurance rate of the carburetor, see in the photos # 1.3 and 1.4, we can take over this rate, see picture # 1.5. ( to sometimes it sticks a little, with some gentle taps the same yield.)

Photo # 1.3-pry insurance rate by a screwdriver.

Photo # 1.4.-Manner in which feels like it should put the flat screwdriver to lever make sure the rate, the movement of the lever case is upward.

Photo # 1.5.-The rate of your site being removed.

Step 2.

Well, now we have access to the inside of the carburetor in this part are seen the two jets, the high and low (green arrow red, respectively) and the floating, see picture # 2.1.

Photo # 2.1.-The two jets, the high indicated by the green arrow and the low indicated by red arrow.

With a delicate touch, we can remove the high jet through a pair of pliers, as shown in picture # 2.2.

Photo # 2.2.-Removing the high-jet with the help of pliers (red arrow).

Then we can remove by hand the high jet, see picture # 2.3.

Photo # 2.3.-jet Once loosened high, we can remove it by hand (pictured indicated with a red arrow).

precisely locates the low jet, shown in picture # 2.4 with a red arrow.

Photo # 2.4.-seated place where the jet is low, see the markings of the red arrow.

To finish this part, unscrew the low jet by using a thin screwdriver blade. see photo # 2.5.

Photo # 2.5.-Getting the low-jet with the screwdriver (see red arrow).

If they are retailers, who must be, they will realize that the float is held by a pin that goes horizontally, to remove just one hand as deslícenlo the red arrow, see photos # 2.6 and 2.7.

Photo # 2.6.-Removing the pin from to float.

Photo # 2.7.-hand removal of the pin that holds the float.

After you have removed the float, we see the three openings, jet blue arrow high, green, jet, low and red is the needle valve or float, pictured # 2.8.

Photo # 2.8.-Taking the inner chamber where they hosted the jets and the float with the needle, see the blue arrows, green and red.

To remove the needle or float valve (yellow arrow), just retírenla hand to a safe location (see red arrow indicates where the same act), see photo # 2.8.

Removing Photo # 2.9.-hand needle valve or float.

Step 3.

already have the green light to begin taking the carburetor of the block to do is to remove the eight screws that hold them (each carburettor is secured by two screws as shown by green arrows) , see picture # 3.1.

Photo # 3.1 - Two screws per carburetor, and indicated by green arrows.

Well to remove the carburetors from the block, will that remove the eight screws, as they are manufactured very tight, no find another way to get them out with the impact screwdriver, very useful and appropriate for those brute force work, see picture # 3.2.

Photo # 3.2.-Placing the impact screwdriver into position for attack ..

impact screwdriver alone will not have no effect, for efficiency, we use a hammer, some good shots moderate effectively do their job, remember there are eight screws and two per carburetor Once removed, we remove the carburetors from the block, may be somewhat cumbersome at first, they must have some care and patience, until ready going to see picture # 3.3.

Photo # 3.3. - Removing the screws with a hammer insurance impacts.

Continuing to end, it is necessary to remove the rubber from the top of each carburetor (inside the red circle and indicated by a green arrow), the rubber covers or protects the timing screws of each carburetor, but that's another story be revealed in due time, see photos # 3.4, 3.5 and 3.6.

Photo # 3.4.-Removing the rubber of each carburetor top.

Photo # 3.5.-removing gum with great kindness and care, since it is very tight as well, is very sensitive and if they suddenly just get a broken rubber, as it tears easily.

Photo # 3.6.-Time at which frees the top of the carburetor.

Then you can start the final carburetor removal of the block, we must take each lobe of the cam to hold and act on each choke, remember We had only removed the cupilla and flat washer (Step 1, pictures 1.1 and 1.2) which ensured the whole, see Photo # 3.7.

Taking Picture # 3.7.-lobe (red arrow) of the choke lever (yellow arrow).

Photo # 3.8.-Beginning carburettors separate block or cluster (red and yellow arrow).

Right at this very moment you will realize that if they do not remove the recoil spring will make slightly less than impossible task of separating each Carb block in picture # 3.9, shown red arrows indicate just where you have to remove it.

Photo # 3.9.-The recoil spring showing the two anchor points (red arrows).



To

initiate the sequence of removal of spring or return spring should have initially partially loosened carbs (Step 3) to have enough space for the "plot" begins with some kind of hook that can be introduced into the bottom hole ( red arrow) and gently pull on the green arrow direction, view photos, # 3.10, 3.11 and 3.12.

Photo # 3.10.-Beginning in the spring retreat or recoil spring.



Momento Photo # 3.11 and that is seen when one of the carbs (green arrow) is released from the lobe that holds the spring (red arrow), if they appreciate While the spring is fastened at the bottom between the two carburetors.

Once one of the carburetors is released completely, just remove the left lobe of the other carburetor recoil spring (red arrow), do it carefully and not let go, if will not fired in the air, see photos # 3.12, 3.13 and 3.14.

Photo # 3.12.-Removing the recoil spring bottom.

Photo # 3.13.-The last bastion holding the recoil spring, the top hole (green arrow).

Photo # 3.14.-The culprit for all our ills, the recoil spring removed.

Each carburetor is linked to others by a small rubber tube (red arrow) and a T of metal with rubber gaskets (blue arrow), as the same are pressure must remove the carburetor with small movements until free, see photos # 3.15 and 3.16.

Photo # 3.15.-Releasing carburetor peers ..

Photo # 3.16. - One of the four carburetors free the trio which deprived him of liberty :) .

order to remove the piston that holds the main needle should loosen the nut kind of round or circular ring, indicated by the red arrow see photos # 3.17 and 3.18.

Photo # 3.17.-circular nut or washer that holds the piston plunger.

Photo # 3.18.-Turn the ring on anti-clockwise to remove clock, indicated by the red arrow.

Once you have withdrawn the circular ring, we can pull up a way the piston plunger is released (see red arrows), see photos # 3.19 and 3.20.

Photo # 3.19-stirring up the piston plunger.

Photo # 3.20-final .Removido plunger piston, notice that at the end of the needle that acts at the end with the jet discharge.

Well, now it's time to get some rest, and I have explained enough disassembling the carburetor in the next section to designate a them as clean it.

As I always say it was a real pleasure to be able to share with you this fascinating part of the restoration, rather laborious, no pain but worth doing a job, or ... I wrong? we are here with other "Bati- story" soon, I promise. , -)